WASHINGTON: First Ascent of Silver Tooth, SW buttress: The Crown 5.9+ II+

North Cascades, Washington Pass

Silver Tooth, SW buttress: The Crown 5.9+ II+
FA: Mark Allen, Doug Sredinsky August 6th 2004

On August 6th new line was explored on the western aspect of the Snag Tooth ridge belonging to the Siverstar Massif at Washington Pass. Doug Sredinsky and myself approached the ridge primarily via Burgundy col trail then contoured into the willow creek drainage to revisit a large undescribed satellite buttress. This feature is on the north aspect of the Snag Tooth ridge system and trends SW It was dubbed the Silver Tooth for its relation to the Snag Tooth ridge, close proximity to Silver Star, and its characteristic triangular white granite buttress. From the top a long crescent shaped ridge leads to the Snagtooth’s three final towers. The buttress reviled some exiting climbing on clean granite on a route climber’s right of the futures main cleave.
The first four pitches climb hand and finger cracks averaging 5.7-5.8 with some interesting sporty climbing at three distinct cruxes up to 5.9+. The first 650ft were climbed in three 200ft pitches and one short 50ft pitch to the top of the triangle (silver tooth). Doug and I saw fantastic views the jagged jawbone belonging the Snagtooth Ridge, Silver Star, Big Kangaroo and the Liberty Bell group. We changed gears to simul and climbed an amazing 1200ft long exposed mid-fifth class ridge over three independent towers for the remaining 600ft vertical. The route deposits you 100yds south off the West Buttress of Silver Star and allows for an exhilarating scree ski back down to the Burgundy Col trail and car. The Crown is 5.9+ 5 pitches was done car to car in a little over half a day. No pins, bolts or tat were required. A nice little quickie.

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